St Ella

Cheesemaker: Rosary

Region: Landford, Wiltshire, England

Milk: goat's

Pasteurisation: yes

Vegetarian: yes (microbial rennet)

Based on the crottin, these small, but intense cheeses are a bit of a dark horse! Relatively unknown, they're an exceptional homage that blends the best bits of the French classic with a uniquely Westcountry richness.

Slightly soft close to the wrinkled, geotrichum rind, but a firmer, almost fudgy centre. The flavours are intense but not overwhelming and there is a gentle sharpness to balance the straw-like nuttiness.

Simply slice thinly and serve on warm, crusty bread with a little figgy chutney, or chop into salads. Also sinfully good baked!